Until she's with us and making it, it's her legacy
I had the pleasure of being introduced to Julia through a mutual foodie friend, Marina. Both of them reside in what should be on your bucket food list (if it isn’t already), Sicily. I may have a slight bias to this humble island being married to a Sicilian, but I’ve yet to hear someone visit and not fall off their chairs with how incredible the food is – but I digress.
Julia shares a passion for all things food, and even has her own Facebook group called Soul Kitchen – A Support Group Through Food, Culture and Love (and if that isn’t the most amazing sounding FB group, I don’t know what is!). When I reached out to her for this FH blog/experiment, she was immediately, and kindly, keen to make a contribution. The story she has shared has so many remarkable elements; from the dessert being a celebratory family staple, the history of how her 96 years young Zia came to learn about it, and how this is truly a hidden gem of a dish on what is a relatively small island. Though, perhaps my favourite part of the story is the respect the family has to leave this recipe unacquired, at least, until Zia so kindly shared it with the Feasting Hearts community. As with many of our food/love memories, what makes them hold a special place in our heart is the tradition of them. The routine experience of the who, the when, and the where is weaved into how we related to it, and replicating a recipe can nearly seems blasphemous while we have the blessing to revel in our family member preparing it for us.
Riso Nero is for Julia’s family, that ubiquitous expression of love and history from their Zia Salvina. And what a privilege it is to share its story, and the recipe, with you here.
The Legendary Zia Salvina
When one side of your family is from Sicily, food is an important aspect of life. Your events and memories almost always revolve around food. My Maltese aunt once said, "why do Italians always talk about food even while they're eating?" I had never thought about it, but 20 plus years later I now know that food is a Sicilian's love language. It's how parents make sure you have enough to eat, especially what you like. It's how a newly formed couple might show off their skills to each other to say "I love you and I can take care of you."
That being said, choosing one recipe or memory is no easy feat. In the 20 years I have now lived continuously in Sicily, food is intertwined with every single important memory or person.
One recipe stands out though. It is a recipe that is a constant and a recipe that only one person in my family makes for every occasion. Actually, she is the only person I've ever known to make it, so it's kind of a big deal.
My great aunt, Zia Salvina, is going on 96 in a few weeks and she still makes this dish; she even made it for Christmas just a few months ago. It is a dessert that has origins that go back centuries and was made for special occasions like Easter and Christmas. Whenever I think of going to visit my aunt or a meal with her, I think of her "riso nero" (black rice), said to commemorate the Black Madonna of Tindari. It has become her token, the dish people expect her to take with her. People look at it and sometimes do not feel like trying it out, but they are missing out on flavors from once upon a time and, above all, the love my Zia Salvina puts in it.
This cocoa flavored rice pudding is something I have never seen on a menu so I know just how special and important this recipe is to pass on. I hope I will one day inherit my aunt's handwritten notebook of recipes, but until that day I don't think I will have the courage to try this recipe out. Until she's with us and making it, it's her legacy. One day I will make it myself and remember her and remind the other members of my family of her as well. She has always known that no one else in her town makes this recipe and most people have never heard of it. It makes her feel special to be the one who makes something out of the ordinary.
The story goes that when she was little, her mother's friend shared the recipe with them. The friend in question was from another part of Sicily, where this recipe originates. Nowadays we learn of so many different recipes from around the world with an easy search on the Internet or through traveling, but back then there wasn't so much mobility because of bad infrastructure and mountain ranges that separated many areas. Strangely enough, this recipe has not gained popularity over time, but rather lost it. It's a shame that it remained mostly within its provincial boundaries over the centuries. So that is why, even today, when Zia Salvina presents her riso nero to our friends and extended families, most people don't know what it is! I only recently asked her for the recipe and she said so happily, ”I'm so happy that someone will inherit my recipes.” With this dedication, I hope the recipe will reach other families and spread love.
Riso Nero
Ingredients
1 kilogram rice of your choice (see note below)
1 litre of milk
Cocoa
3 cups espresso
750 grams of sugar
Ground almonds
Optional toppings
Method
This is a rather easy recipe if you're used to making rice pudding. You can personalize it by adding a spice like cinnamon or nutmeg, or even a touch of orange peel, depending on your tastes.
Zia has shared her original recipe with me, but she made sure to point out that you can make it sweeter if you want.
You need 1 kg of rice of your choice. The rice you choose will determine how soft or hard it will come out.
You add just enough water with the rice in a pot to cook it half way and add a pinch of salt. Once the water is absorbed, you add a liter of milk with cocoa and espresso (she uses a moka pot for 3 cups) and about 750 gr of sugar. Once it's cooked, you add almonds that were previously ground with a mortar and pestle, and mix.
The riso nero should then be placed on a plate and eaten at room temperature. You can decorate it with pine nuts, maraschino cherries or candied fruit. Buon appetito!